I really really really appreciate all that input about printing. You all have spent a good amount of time providing it and having it on the board is a real plus.
It has helped me (a tiny bit because I only have a tiny understanding of it) with my scan preparation. Wish I could make full use of the info to produce better scan results.
Gary
japanese 7th foil COP White
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- mystical_tutor
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- Librarities Legend
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You're very welcome Gary!
Scanning a halftoned image (like a printed Magic card), can also create a moire pattern based on the distance between the scanner sensors and how far they move between capturing images. (each scanner model is different)
For me, sometimes Alpha, Beta, Unlimited scans have a sort of checkerboard pattern.
If you have a problem like that, it can sometimes help to rotate the object your scanning on the scanner bed to a different angle. This will change how the scanner itself resonates with the angles of the color layers.
Scanning at a different DPI might also help because that changes how far the sensors move between capturing images.
Different sets can use different color angles, so that's why some sets are harder to scan than others.
If that doesn't work, then you could try to descreen the image, which is an attemp to make it appear like it did before it was halftoned and printed through a combination of blurring and sharpening.
Tav
Scanning a halftoned image (like a printed Magic card), can also create a moire pattern based on the distance between the scanner sensors and how far they move between capturing images. (each scanner model is different)
For me, sometimes Alpha, Beta, Unlimited scans have a sort of checkerboard pattern.
If you have a problem like that, it can sometimes help to rotate the object your scanning on the scanner bed to a different angle. This will change how the scanner itself resonates with the angles of the color layers.
Scanning at a different DPI might also help because that changes how far the sensors move between capturing images.
Different sets can use different color angles, so that's why some sets are harder to scan than others.
If that doesn't work, then you could try to descreen the image, which is an attemp to make it appear like it did before it was halftoned and printed through a combination of blurring and sharpening.
Tav
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- Librarities Legend
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- Joined: Fri Aug 09, 2013 1:09 pm
- Location: Florida
Re:
I rounded up some more info and wanted to post it somewhere for posterity...cataclysm80 wrote: I've noticed that the resolution Magic cards are printed at has changed to a higher quality at least once, and this did result in a smaller rosette pattern. (same pattern, just smaller)
I haven't taken the time to figure out exactly when the change happened. Zendikar was printed at 200 LPI. If you can look at an uncut sheet edge, this information is printed on it along with the file name, etc.
English Legends has larger rosettes, printed at a lesser LPI, I'm guessing around 155 LPI. The change was somewhere in the middle.
The change might have happened when Carta Mundi switched from Heidelberg to KBA presses, or maybe when they opened the Texas print facility, or maybe when 8th edition came out, but possibly at anytime.
If anyone can post the info from sheet edges here, it may save a lot of time looking at cards to figure it out.
Tav
Alpha through Antiquities was printed at 150 LPI.
Revised was the first set printed at 175 LPI.
I found some more info on when Carta Mundi switched from Heidelberg presses to KBA.
Carta Mundi's first KBA machine was in 2004 (not in Belgium).
Belgium received its first KBA machine during 2006.
The Texas facility got one in January 2009.
Texas received another in January 2010.
Belgium received another in February 2011
Belgium received another in May 2011 making it a fully KBA facility.
http://www.kba.com/nl/news/detail/artic ... -turnhout/
http://www.piworld.com/article/cartamun ... -news/all/
Tav
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